All Cook Should Study Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Earns Fourth on List of London’s Best Food Spots.
Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of north London.
An Unexpected Accolade
The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has left the owners completely surprised.
“I am totally shocked,” remarks the family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble place securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.
The Appeal of Simplicity
The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.
The Signature Dish: Tantuni
In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.
The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.
It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.
Beyond the Basic Tantuni
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.
Surpassing the Stars
Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.
The Creed of Hospitality
It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.
“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.
The Story of Hard Work
Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.
“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.
A Achievement for the Culture
The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.